Crème de la Crème: Selvage Denim Jeans
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Above: the characteristic woven "self-edge" of selvage denim
by Julian Burak
Denim has been around for over a hundred years and will continue to be around for another thousand years – or until we destroy the earth entirely, be it through global warming, pollution, or WW3. So if you want to prepare yourself for such a travesty, then make sure the last pair of jeans you have on are of the highest quality so that you die looking great. That is: get yourself a pair of selvage denim jeans.
Selvage denim is the crème de la crème of jeans. The name selvage has been derived by its production process of giving the denim its own “self edge“. Produced on smaller shuttle looms, the denim is woven in one continuous thread, back and forth, making the denim more durable and ensuring it wont unravel. They’ve become so popular in recent years that HBO, of all places, have even produced a television series about running a selvage denim label in New York.
In general, selvage denim uses more fabric then normal denim and can usually be identified by its woven edge (pictured right). It comes in varying weights; heavier weighted selvage denim is more rigid and almost makes you feel like you are wearing armored pants. In a good way. It usually is produced and sold in the denim’s natural, unwashed state, often called “raw” or “dry” denim. This is when the denim is a beautiful, dark indigo color and tends to be somewhat rigid and stiff. The idea behind this denim is to develop and turn the jeans into your own customized fit. The more you wear the denim the more it moulds to your body shape and builds creases and personal fades that match your body.
Raw selvage denim ages beautifully, almost like leather. So to get the best look and feel from your denim, wait around 10 months before you have given them there first wash. The more you wear your jeans, then the more character they will get. This raw selvage denim tends to bleed before it is washed so avoid wearing them around white leather shoes, wallets, couches, and car seats.
It now has a life of its own now that has been made popular again by Japanese denim designers, with more and more labels producing this higher quality selvage denim. Make sure you take care of your jeans, and they will take care of you. They are like your second skin – treat them well and they will make sure to get you through the tough times. Even WW3. Trust us.
Selvage Denim Jeans – the crème de la crème of jeans.
Quick tips for wearing raw selvage denim jeans
- Make sure the denim fits nice and snug around the waist because they will stretch and give a lot. Don’t be afraid to ask for help if you’re not sure of the right size for you – most guys buy jeans which are far too big for them.
- After washing the denim, the leg length may shrink about half an inch to an inch. This is important to know if you plan on having the jeans altered at some stage.
- Higher weighted denim is more rigid and harder. The durability is high but the comfort level is low. Stick to around 14oz weight which most denim labels base their products around.
- Wait 6 months before you wash your jeans. Personal wear marks will come out beautifully during time time. The more you wear them, the better the results.
- When washing, make sure you wash jeans separately on a hand wash setting – half a cup of liquid detergent is all you need. Make sure it’s a warm wash as to not ruin denim. After you have washed them make sure you hang dry your jeans and never put them in the dryer!
Where to Get Yourself a Pair
There are many great labels for selvage denim jeans. Our two favourites, that we recommend to all of our image consulting clients, are:
Nudie Jeans - http://www.nudiejeans.com/
Edwin Jeans – http://www.edwin-europe.com/
A.P.C. – http://www.apc.fr/
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